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Off-Road Warrior
Posted
Since my SAS I've been looking at all the posts talking about brake upgrades. Now that there are many SAS rigs with a number of years of offroad and onroad use, who would recommend what upgrade and why? What did you try that did not work?

My truck is a 91' Hardbody with a Waggy Dana 44 and (for now) stock rear drum. I've never had good brakes, even before the SAS and could not lock up the brakes on dry pavement. The SAS has only made things worse. I'd like to swap in some Pathy brakes to replace my stock rear drums but not if it is going to add to my problem.
 
Posts: 1056 | Location: San Diego, CA | Registered: April 24, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
Picture of TF&J
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Here is my take. Your setup should work awesome. You have much bigger brakes on the front than you did originally, or or least they are intended for a heavier vehicle. Your braking issues stem from either bleeding problems, or parts that need to be repaired like worn pads and shoes, glazed rotors, or any of the other normal brake parts being worn out. Now as for upgrading, yes a rear disc setup would be good. I have 4 wheel discs on mine and the brakes are incredible. But, my entire brake system is all heavy duty or new components. 3/4 ton chevy calipers and rotors in front, stainless steel brake lines, and a willwood proportioning valve. If you think bleeding the brakes can't be one of your issues, then it has to be worn or inferior parts. And as for bleeding the front calipers, it can be tricky. You might need to remove the caliper completly from the rotors and bleed them upside down and sideways because they can trap air inside that won't escape when mounted.
 
Posts: 3773 | Location: Preskitt | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
Picture of LordBiotree
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This is what I plan to run with my Sas. http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/777600023...10558901#67110558901

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/

When I replaced my calipers,pads/rotors and stainless brake lines, was the first time I ever locked up the brakes in my hardbody.

If you let your rear brakes get out of adjustment you might not be able to lock them up. The say the rear drums are auto-adjust but I've always had to adjust mine.


1995 KC XE-V6 4x4.
 
Posts: 4652 | Location: U.S.A,Tallahassee/Jacksonville, Florida | Registered: June 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Dirt Road Driver
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When I did my SAS I replaced everything except the housing and spindles with new parts. All the brake parts were purchased from Autozone.

All I can say is that even with 37's it stopped 5 times better then it did with the Nissan parts and a 400 dollar brake job.

I only drove it a few times with the rear drums before I went to the pathfinder disks. The disks helped but not as much as the difference from the Nissan to Jeep switch.

FYI...I could lock up my front brakes with the Nissan parts, but you could barely feel the rear ABS unless you were on snow.
 
Posts: 84 | Registered: November 10, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Off-Road Warrior
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When i purchased the truck new (used with about 7000 miles on it) it had 31" tires and ABS in the rear. Even then I could only get an occasional chirp from the front, even while practically standing on the brakes. The Dana 44 front has all new parts/pads. The drums and pads in the rear only have about 5000 miles on them.

My ABS light no longer comes on when I start the truck. I'm going to try disconnecting the harnes at the axle and see how it effects braking. I have a proportioning valve available and might try installing it. If I do, should I remove the ABS junk in the rear brake line?

I wonder if I have a problem with my vac assist or if going to a Pathy MC would help?

TF&J, do you still have a Chevy master cylinder?
 
Posts: 1056 | Location: San Diego, CA | Registered: April 24, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
Picture of TF&J
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I don't use the Chevy MC anymore. I installed it originally because I thought the brakes were not getting enough fluid to them with the stock MC. I then learned about the trapped air in Chevy calipers, and tried the remove and bleed method. There was alot of air in the calipers because they are designed with a high spot above the bleeder screw. Anyways, after the bleeding(which included tapping on the calipers with something) my brakes came alive and were suddenly great pinchers. I then put the Willwood prop valve on to give the rear brakes less squeeze than the front, and viola!
 
Posts: 3773 | Location: Preskitt | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Ultimate N4Wheeler
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I need to try that T. Mine have sucked since the swap.

Wanna come down one weekend, party it up and you can show me????




Meh.
 
Posts: 6398 | Location: The President is near... | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Ultimate N4Wheeler
Picture of Sand Bag
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Lemmeno if that planes out. I'll drive up there for a brake bleeding party Wink


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"Never argue with an idiot, they will just drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
 
Posts: 8146 | Location: Where illegals run amok, Az | Registered: December 12, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
NISSAN4WHEELER
Picture of LordBiotree
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Ok guys, revisiting this again. I've bled 2qts through my entire brake system. I've bled the brakes In accordance with the FSM. Brakes feel fine I just have a soft peddle.

With Front and Rear Dana 44, somehow I think my Nissan M/C is too small. The willwood valve is in the mail.

TF&J is this normal?

I want to make sure my brake system is completely covered before I put my truck back on the road again. If something needs to be addressed I'm taking care of it now.


1995 KC XE-V6 4x4.
 
Posts: 4652 | Location: U.S.A,Tallahassee/Jacksonville, Florida | Registered: June 17, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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