Well, the steering wheel isn't centered on the X anymore...it's about 10 degrees to the right. The funny thing is it tracks better now. It has about 1/4" of toe in, so it's not bad, but it needs an alignment. Nothing appears visibly bent, but when I get under it to fix the CV boot, I'll have a closer look at the balljoints, etc.

I've got a torn inner CV boot. The right side sway bar bolt is wasted. I was able to hammer it out. The power steering is making noise and the fluid is all red and frothy...almost like it has ATF in it (?)

The power steering fluid typically is ATF.. dexron III.

frothy ps fluid is usually low and aireating (SP)

Both inner CV boots are ripped. Three bolt holes in the RH hub are stripped.

I ordered new boots this evening for $21. I have a spare hub. All in all, a pretty cheap trip in terms of carnage.

The LH spring hanger is slightly bent. I have a couple of dents on the hidden side of the LH slider. One mashed skid plate bolt and a few scrapes on guarding here and there. Just your typical rock rash.

Stupid tire but had certs...

Spring hangers look even more like old beer cans than they used too.

A few new marks on the Warn front diff cover.

GPS unit froze up. Keith reset it but it won't even turn on now, I'll have to get the book out.

Dogs are bacon addicts now.

quote:

Dogs are bacon addicts now.

lol

yes, power steering fluid is the same as regular ATF fluid. There's no point in spending the extra money on the bottle labeled power steering fluid.

They're actually not QUITE the same, but plenty close enough for 99% of uses. Power steering fluid really is just true hydraulic fluid. Transmission fluid has friction modifiers, detergents, and a host of other crap.

My frame is cracking where I welded on my panhard bar mount. I plated the side of the frame, but it's cracking at the edge of the weld (heat stress) and the frame split on the bottom where it wasn't plated.



This allowed enough movement to make it impossible to drive on the road (death wobble). A couple ratchet straps got me home.



I also tore a hole in my top on one of the night runs and I'm having a problem with the bolts on my drivers side axle coming loose.

damn, that sucks.

I had the same problem with my track bar. When I went to the coilovers, we redesigned it so it would tie in to the passenger side frame rail.
Lator....

I've got a new engine crossmember that I'll be installing. This will tie the two sides together better than the stock crappy crossmember. I'll also be boxing in the frame on the drivers side, adding some additional plating to further strengthen the frame and redesigning the panhard bar mount.

Once that is done I will install a hydraulic steering assist ram which will take a lot of the stress off the frame on that side.

Anyone with a 2000-2004 XTERRA or Frontier in need of a TC Xmember? I have one NIB for $95 (about $40 cheaper than retail)..

I think I'll go take a good look at mine...

Uhlabomber suggested iron-on patches to repair the holes that got worn in my tent cot bag where it rubbed the roof rack... mebbe those would work for fixing the Blazer top?

I haven't really noticed any significant damage on mine except there is a little squished spot in one of my Warn hubs... no big deal.

here is my dmg list from the other thread....

bummer list....
-6 dead glow plugs
-blown fuse at batteries
-leaky injector
-air in fuel system
-crack in fuel filter, drove 20 miles with it before it got replaced!
-bend front arm
-bent tie rod
-flogged sliders but they still good to go!
-2 busted and lost arials for CB
-busted valve on Fox shock, field repaired!
-busted into 2 pieces tranny mount
-wasted tail light
-cracked weld on front diff truss
-pin hole leak on rear diff from weld
-shagged drive lines but who cares!
-leaks all over gear boxes
-and other shit I am sure I am forgetting!

Everything is getting fixed up at the fab shop....Jason who stopped by this forum is a real good guy. Not charging me on stuff I shouldn't have to pay for.

Tranny mounts are going to be leaf spring bushings, not poly. The old school type with vulcanized rubber is what will be used. Should be able to buy them at any auto store in the USA for $15. Will be getting new front trailing arms. We decided on trying a solid 2" aluminum rod. Same goes for tie rod just not 2" diameter. sending unit going in fuel tank so my gauge works. Brakes all dialed in too.

Come mid-summer, when I have some more money, we will be putting in a crawler gear box. This will double my low range. At that point I will be stepping up to 16" Fox shocks and 38" Creepies! New rims which are real beadlocks will come sometime between now and then.

Not much else to tell other than yea I am thinking of coming to next years run.....hopefully I have a good working season and it will be a go!

OK, all I found was a leaky front diff cover (tightened the bolts tonight), leaky trany hose (tightened when I aired up leaving Sat. morning), and a leaky steering box (appears to have stopped by itself). Otherwise ready for the next run!

Your truck did great, Bob. Shame it doesn't have a name.

I would call it Unbreakable... but that would jinks it, 3 years of wheeling with you all and all I have broke is a motor mount and one Warn Hub (my fault on that one).

Maybe I should call it "Lucky"?

How has the arb diff cover stood up. Taken and really hard hits to the diff cover yet?

quote:

Originally posted by Reserector:
Your truck did great, Bob. Shame it doesn't have a name.

My truck has had a 'personal' name forever - but I always wanted to think of something cool to call it like John's "Pirate Ship"....

last night when posting some pics of it on TNO I came up with the Blue Ox. Not as cool as pirate ship, but I think it works.