not to be confused with Blue Meany.

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:
How has the arb diff cover stood up. Taken and really hard hits to the diff cover yet?

It took 2 very hard hits, worked great, but I did start leaking fluid (very slowly). What I found was the bottom bolts were loose now. Maybe I should smack it with a hammer all the way around and then tighten the bolts, smack it again and repeat.

Or use some thread lock on the bolts.

Cover is coming off in a few weeks to put back the 5:13's, will do that then. I will try and order the locker for the H233b today and then we can get that put together and out of your yard.

quote:

Originally posted by Kaiser:

quote:

Originally posted by Reserector:
Your truck did great, Bob. Shame it doesn't have a name.

My truck has had a 'personal' name forever - but I always wanted to think of something cool to call it like John's "Pirate Ship"....

last night when posting some pics of it on TNO I came up with the Blue Ox. Not as cool as pirate ship, but I think it works.

Maybe "Box" for short.

"The Battleship" is still up for grabs.

How about the Blue Meh-nee

quote:

Originally posted by gumybob:

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotree:
How has the arb diff cover stood up. Taken and really hard hits to the diff cover yet?

It took 2 very hard hits, worked great, but I did start leaking fluid (very slowly). What I found was the bottom bolts were loose now. Maybe I should smack it with a hammer all the way around and then tighten the bolts, smack it again and repeat.

I've found that it's definitely worth the $4 for a real diff cover gasket on a D44. I smear both sides of the gasket lightly with RTV before assembling. Mine leaked a little with just RTV alone.

Get a LubeLocker gasket, it's reusable and only $20.

Got most of it fixed today.

Oil change
New swaybar bolt and bushings
Fixed torn dust boot on halfshaft
Got the air out of the power steering
Replaced a broken ABS wire
Cleaned the MAF

The truck needs aligned, but there isn't much point, as the bushings in the Calmini idler arm are so far gone.

My wife came up with a name for my truck, how about "The Big Eazy"

quote:

Originally posted by gumybob:
My wife came up with a name for my truck, how about "The Big Eazy"

Well, it DOES have Mardi Gras beads......

I just finished replacing both inner CV boots as well as the wheel hub that had the stripped hub bolt holes.
I'm all ready for next year.

testing....

yes, with those worn calmini steering parts the alignment shop is going to have a tough time.

I started working on the truck this weekend and found a few more things screwed up.
- I pulled my front hubs apart to repack the bearings after all the water. They had been spinning on the spindles so I went ahead and replaced the bearings. I'll keep the old ones as trail spares.
- One of my tie rod ends got bent because my tie rod was hitting my track bar mount.
- My D60 high steer arms are moving on the knuckles. This is evident by the fact that they are both spitting out the gaskets between the arms and knuckles.
- I managed to break one of the mounting tabs on a rear caliper, probably when the wheel was buried in sand the first night.
- Drained the water/oil mix out of the rear diff. No new problems discovered there.
- The rear output shaft on my NP205 is loose and leaking. I'm going to have to pull that apart and figure out how to fix that now too.

I also pulled out all my steering stuff (steering box, pump and lines) to get ready for the hydro assist. I disassembled, drilled and tapped my spare steering box and reassembled it. Now I just have to order the ram, pump, remote reservoir and cooler.

For the histeer arm problem, I put mine together without gaskets at all. Never noticed ANY grease weeping, and they hold better. A piece-to-piece interface that takes that much torque, I don't feel should have a gasket. Clean the two surfaces very well, put 'em together and clamp down. It's not like you're trying to seal 2000psi.

For the hydro assist, I bought a surpluscenter ram, and lines. LOTS less than other vendors.

Yep, surpluscenter is the way to go for rams.. I've been lookin at them for a ram for my bender.

quote:

Originally posted by TheDrip:
For the histeer arm problem, I put mine together without gaskets at all. Never noticed ANY grease weeping, and they hold better. A piece-to-piece interface that takes that much torque, I don't feel should have a gasket. Clean the two surfaces very well, put 'em together and clamp down. It's not like you're trying to seal 2000psi.

For the hydro assist, I bought a surpluscenter ram, and lines. LOTS less than other vendors.

Thanks, I was planning on pulling the gaskets out and just using a thin layer of RTV, but I think your way is better. I think the RTV would lubricate the joint too much just like the gasket.

I was planning on using PSC Motorsports stuff. The Ram really isn't the expensive part, and I want something that is going to hold up. The expensive part is the high volume/pressure pump, remote reservoir and cooler combination.

I may order the ram from Surplus Center though. I need to get this ordered soon so I can get my truck back together.

Of course I just looked and the cylinder I'd want is back ordered (2" bore-6" stroke with heims).

Did you reduce the stroke on your ram to make it match your steering? I've heard you can put a spacer inside the ram to limit the movement of the ram so you don't break your steering arms. I checked my tie rod movement yesterday with the Sky arms, 4-5/8" lock to lock. Even if I removed the locks I wouldn't be able to get the full 6" movement.

high steers loosing up on an MQ/MK Patrol is a real problem. The guy who built mine used tapered lock washers about 1/4" thick that recess into the high steer arm below your cap nuts. The lock washers are shaped like this, \/. Then he used special cap nuts....it seems to be working really well.

My arms use conical interference fit nuts. The problem is the gasket I think. I'll be removing that and just running machined steel on machined steel.