I have a 93 HB 2wd. The frame in back rusted through once and I welded several plates of steel to give it strength again. I am wondering if any of you have advice on how to protect the frame from corrosion. Also to keep in mind, I drive it in northern minnesota.

Only thing you can do is remove rust and spray a corrosion preventive compound. You'll probably have to make one up yourself.

WD40 and your choice of oil mixed should work. Find a way to remove as much rust as possible. If you spray a corrosion preventive compound over corrosion, it's just going to corrode underneath the film.

For normal driving I would spray it every 14 days. If you are driving in heavy salted roads spray at least every 7 days or as needed depending on salt conditions.

Well sir, didn't have the time to remove the rust(by time I mean equipment, poor college student) but instead just covered the rust with oil and went down a dusty road to cover it. Rudimentary, but for an aspiring engineer its a good project.

hey im in a auto shop class in my high school and i am working with a teacher in that class on his frame. we basicly destoyed everything down to the bare frame he is having it sand blasted and we have power washed it about 3 or 4 times now. ur best bet would to take it back down to frame drill a couple holes small at lower ends of the frame so water and salt can drain. after making it clean put at least 2 coats of paint on it and a protective coating on that.. this should make it last a lot longer then in the winter when u get the salt on a decently warm day take it to a power wash that is what i do and i cant get any closer to canada in uper michigan.

The inside of the frame needs to be coated too.. these frames tend to rust from the inside out.

Im going to por 15 my truck this summer, i had good luck with their product.

imo the post 90's frame will rust out because the frame is of lighter gauge metal than previous years ..

90 models are parts trucks...

For the existing rust there are a lot of products available to first treat the rust, and also to seal it so it doesn't continue to grow. Por 15 is a good sealer, most autobody supply houses will have something similar. SEMS is a good brand, although I use Wurth USA most of the time. Most of these sealers require some sort of top coat because they have no UV resistance. Of course the rusted area needs to be thoroughly descaled and cleaned with a metal conditioner. There are also DTR (direct to rust) paints that don't require a top coat. Regular paints don't have self etching properties so they won't stick to metal, rusted or not. Ultimately unless you move to Arizona, it's going to continue to rust in light of not being able to treat the inside of the rails. I restored an 85 4runner that was from Utah, and I figured it should last till the owner's 9 yr old is well into his 20's. But I don't think his grand kids will be driving it.

Anyone try an electronic anti rust system like this clicky? Might be worth trying on a newer vehicle, esp if you live in the rust belt.

For painting, I've had really good luck with "rust destroyer" brand primer. It takes a long time to dry but holds up very well.

quote:

electronic anti rust system

I read their page. I dont quite understand how it works. Here is some info on corrosion:

When a metal corrodes, the atoms lose electrons and become positively charged. In solution, the positively charged metal ions
can combine with negatively charged ions to form
corrosion products

That being said in basic you need two things for corrosion to form. A electrolyte and electron flow. How will a electronic anti rust system work? If you are appling elericty to metal it's going to excel the electron flow causing higher rate of corrosion.

quote:

Originally posted by LordBiotre:

quote:

electronic anti rust system

I read their page. I dont quite understand how it works. Here is some info on corrosion:

When a metal corrodes, ...

sounds like they're talking about a sacrificial anode oops, no, it's capacitive coupling.

This link is interesting.

Wow, very interesting stuff! I admit the physics exedes my understanding, but it is interesting none the less. Seems affordable at $187 for a 12v kit. I imagine this might end up on classic cars and hot rods more than off roaders.

Rust is formed when the metal becomes positively charged in water, creating spare electrons. This creates hydroxide ions with a negative charge. These combine to form rust. By running a current through the metal, electrons will take the place of those lost by the reaction with water, preventing hydroxide from forming. However, it would take more power than I can afford and there would not be a sufficient ground.