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I was thinking today, one of the tricks I know people do with hondas that have open diffs is to weld the gears so that both wheels spin together. I was curious if people do this in trucks also. it would be like having a locker, but locked all the time. The only major downfall I can see is turning would be a little akward.

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Well, I can tell you right out, that a welded front does not work with a stock Nissan CL. Mine is welded. (front) I've driven ~500 mi on my current one (on and off road) and it's torched. It works wonders being locked in front, but turning sucks, and the CL selfdestructing the first time out really sucks.
In the back, I wouldn't do it if you drive on the street alot, but it's a REAL cheap locker...
Being locked opens up a whole new world for wheeling. You can go places you never thought possible!

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Posts: 5472 | Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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A welded front is a pain in the ass to deal with. You can't turn well with the hubs locked, and as Mikey eluded to, it'll trash your steering quick.

As for welding the rear, if the truck is your DD on a lot of pavement, I wouldn't recommend it. If it's a trail truck, it's a good cheap way to go, provided it's done correctly.


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Posts: 22092 | Location: Home of the AZ runs | Registered: June 22, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I've been thinking about doing the front myself... my questions is that if you only lock one hub when you don't need to be locked does it still mess with your steering? If I were to only lock in both hubs when I really need it would the CL get thrashed as bad or does the extra stress of both tires turning even if your going straight just trash the thing? I know that even when I would lock both hubs you can't always go in a straight line.

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Posts: 109 | Location: Wheatland,CA | Registered: June 26, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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With one hub locked you'd probably be a little better off. Just make sure you don't drive on hard dry surfaces this way or you're gonna cause drivetrain binding to some degree. The best bet regardless of whatever else you do is to fix the steering permanently. It'll cost you some dough now, but will pay for itself in the long run. A few different solutions are out there - nothing for the D21 yet, but I believe Calmini will support parts for those. Or there's the one off setups others have fabricated.


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Posts: 22092 | Location: Home of the AZ runs | Registered: June 22, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Ya I'm in the works right now for a new setup... right now i'm in the " sit there and stare at it" and say WTF am I going to do stage big grin

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Posts: 109 | Location: Wheatland,CA | Registered: June 26, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yeah, my steering fix is gonna cost about as much as DR's after I sell my axles and stuff... hehehe I figure it'll be about 300-500 out of pocket...

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Posts: 5472 | Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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all i know was the patrol had welded rear end and it did not take long for me to rip that son of bitch to shreads. I would not recommend it.
 
Posts: 1616 | Location: Glendale/Peoria, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'm definatly not doing the rear... saving the pennies for an ARB, but the front I'm still toying with the idea confused

95 WD-21 Video system- otherwise stock.
95 D-21 with some trail goodies!
 
Posts: 109 | Location: Wheatland,CA | Registered: June 26, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Zhvonte:
all i know was the patrol had welded rear end and it did not take long for me to rip that son of bitch to shreads. I would not recommend it.


Of course, you have to remember what kind of driver Zhvonte is. Enjoys the skinny pedal WAY too much. Also, that diff was not setup correctly. Normally, if a welded diff is done correctly, it can stand up to big block power and HUGE tires.

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Posts: 5472 | Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Another option I've heard of is to bind up the gears with a bunch of lead instead of welding 'em. That way if something has to give, it's the lead that will be chewed up and preserve the steel stuff.

Brent
 
Posts: 1846 | Location: Lat 4° 32' 0S Long 154° 13' 60E | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by OffroadX:
Another option I've heard of is to bind up the gears with a bunch of lead instead of welding 'em. That way if something has to give, it's the lead that will be chewed up and preserve the steel stuff.

Brent


This is a HORRIBLE idea. No one should attempt this. If you are going to weld your diff together, do it properly and actually WELD it together. If you do the lead thing, what happens when it self destructs and you have a bunch of lead floating around in your diff? The gear oil ducts that flow oil to the pinion get clogged, and then you are REALLY screwed. Also, it could destroy your R&P, or carrier.

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Posts: 5472 | Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by OffroadX:
Another option I've heard of is to bind up the gears with a bunch of lead instead of welding 'em. That way if something has to give, it's the lead that will be chewed up and preserve the steel stuff.

Brent


Yeah I heard of this too, but didn't think it was a good idea for the reasons that mcfly said. supposedly who i talked to said that the lead, or whatever he said to use, will be softer and won't chew up the r&p if it cracks or whatever...didn't make too much sense at the time either because i'd want the hardest material i could to hold it together

i'd say just carry a spare third incase it does chip and chew the r&p, that would give me better piece of mind than a softer weld

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Posts: 1468 | Location: The JC | Registered: June 25, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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McFly, Actually a Leadfilled Diff is not as bad an idea as you might think. I have run with a front leaded diff for quite some time, and have had it break loose as designed twice. The lead just rolls around and does NOT affect the lubrication or operation of the differential. You just come home, remove the cover, drain the fluid and lead, clean everything up, remelt the lead and refill the gears. Simple, quick, and easy. If you ever break a lincoln welded diff, then you are done, no driving off the trail to get home, you are getting towed, or at best trying to limp out. Atleast with a leaded diff, when the lead breaks free, you still have a working 4wd truck, just no front locker.

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Posts: 11 | Location: Deltona, FL (between Orlando and Daytona Beach) | Registered: November 08, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If you break a well done lincoln locked front, you are one of the following:

Doing something VERY wrong

Didn't weld it well

In a place you shouldn't be with MUCH less axle and WAY more tire than you should be

Carrying spares because you are on an insane trail and came prepared.

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Posts: 5472 | Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Registered: June 24, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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