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I have a 1991 King Cab with KA24E engine, 5 speed, not much else.

I bought it used in 95 with 72000 miles on it. Day after I bought it, I noticed that on startup, it made a nasty racket, until Oil pressure built up. Just like a Honda motorcycle with a hydraulic cam chain tensioner that I owned did. This being my thought process, I just ignored it for a while (Heck, I raced the bike with 32,000 miles on it and it never broke...) I ran it to 110000 miles, and then had it gone through. My mechanic found cam chain guide parts in the oil pan (!) and replaced the guides, tensioner, and chain and sprockets.

The noise went away for about 15000 miles, and at 125000 it started again, and now at 140000 it also rattles cyclicly when cool as I drive down the street. (in cold weather, thick oil dampens these noises substantially)

At about 135000 I had the oil pump replaced. Still, the noise. Now I'm thinking - There's a little stinkin' check valve behind the oil filter housing - could that be it? I'm thinking that there's a messed up pressure relief valve somewhere....

Been a good truck, but now that I have a 2000 Frontier, it has to go. I want to make sure I dont sell a grenade to any potential buyers, and the sound will scare away all but the heartiest of do-it-yourselfers.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Posts: 11 | Registered: November 05, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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So it only happens on startup? Most likely it's from something in the top end not being lubed on startup, maybe the lifters. Anyway, you might try using an oil filter with an anti-drainback valve, that will keep the oil in the top end so hopefully no rattle on start as whatever's rattling is already lubed. You can use the nissan oil filter from a 300z that has an anti-drainback valve, nissan part # 15208-60U00.
Here is a discussion that will help if this is indeed your problem.
http://www2.4x4parts.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=002529

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Posts: 276 | Location: Portland, OR | Registered: July 09, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'm sure it's because of drain down. When I change oil, I always get nearly 5 quarts out, even thought the specs are like 3.4 with filter to fill it. And It's never reading higher than full on the dipstick. (now that I've said that out loud, maybe I shouldn't belive my dipstick....)I've only used Nissan oil filters, and was told by the shop that the standard filter has a drain back valve. Wouldn't be the first time I mistakenly believed a "service technician." Do you know for sure that the standard one doesn't have it?

I'm sure that the noise is the timing chain. It's a distinctive sound.

Looks like I have to log-on to 4x4parts to read that thread, I'll check it later.

Thanks!
 
Posts: 11 | Registered: November 05, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'm almost positive the standard filter doesn't have the anti-drainback valve, if you have the part number could tell you for sure...
 
Posts: 276 | Location: Portland, OR | Registered: July 09, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Rhino48:
When I change oil, I always get nearly 5 quarts out, even thought the specs are like 3.4 with filter to fill it. And It's never reading higher than full on the dipstick. (now that I've said that out loud, maybe I shouldn't belive my dipstick....).



I take it that you've been putting 5 quarts in it? If you have, you've been losing oil pressure due to 'churning' of your oil. I believe its called cavitation, or the oil is being airated making it harder to pump (kinda like whipping milk into whip cream smile That would explain valve-train noise with the new oil pump...

Ben
 
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A dry engine holds about 5 quarts on a rebuild if I remember my shop manual correctly. my theory is that the drain-down check valve is bad and just letting the whole top end drain down. I think that the check valve I see in the service manual behind the housing the oil filter mounts on is to prevent that to minimize valve train wear on cold starts. So, oil that the factory is intending to stay in the top end isn't, hence the "extra" oil in the pan at change time. If that little valve is shot, and my filters dont have a drain back valve........ Just a thought, too. Never seen evidence of frappe'd oil, but it could be happening.

somethingcool, I wont have time to get the part number to you til next week (old truck is up at work, and I'm out til monday.)Keep your eyes peeled for my post of the number I'm using.

do you have a number for the filter you mentioned?

Thanks again, guys.
 
Posts: 11 | Registered: November 05, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Rhino48:
A dry engine holds about 5 quarts on a rebuild if I remember my shop manual correctly. my theory is that the drain-down check valve is bad and just letting the whole top end drain down.



That seems really odd to me. I've never heard of a motor of any make holding more oil that specified at any time. And as far as I have found, the 1990 up KA24E holds 3.5 quarts (1990 and earlier holding 4.5 qts.) Of course if you are cofindent your dipstick is correct, the tried and true method of adding 3 quarts then checking and adding untill it levels off works great.

As far as a filter with a good drain back valve, I'd use ether a Mobil 1 Synthetic or Pure One synthetic (being they are the EXACT same filter) filter. They have an excellent 'drain back valve'. I belive the K&N filters do also.

Ben
 
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So do OEM filters.


1998 Frontier 4x4 seriously built
2002 Xterra 4x4 still stock
"Conjunction Junction, what's your Dysfunction?"
 
Posts: 22096 | Location: Home of the AZ runs | Registered: June 22, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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The same engine in my 90 Stanza has always had that same noise. It gets worse at almost excatly 3000 miles. I change the oil and it goes back to just a few seconds at start up. Thats the way it went for years ( I got it in 95 with 80K on it), now its over 300K and it ratlles at 2500 RPM with moderate load on it - I know the whole engine is just about worn out, so i just keep driving it. I've had thoughts of putting in a set of rings and bearings, have the head rebuilt, and a new timing set, but I think I'll just wait till she blows and get a new engine.

Finesse, not force.

 
Posts: 103 | Location: Keymar, Md | Registered: August 13, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I doubt you can find a filter that does NOT have a drain back valve. Some might be better than others. The noise you hear at startup is most likely hydraulic lifters that have leaked down over night. Try going up one grade of oil and see if it helps. Try googling for the "Oil Filter Study". Not totally scientific but lots of info in there. His conclusion is that the filter in the orange can is not the one you want to use. And some of the cheaper filters are some of the best.

Ichabod
 
Posts: 20 | Location: Statesboro, GA, USA | Registered: November 13, 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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