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Pavement Pounder |
About 4 weeks ago I had some valve train noise. After I got the truck home I let it cool and checked the oil. It took 2 quarts to put the oil level back up to the Full on the oil stick.
Today I had the same ticker valve noise on the way home so I parked it and let it cool and again had to put 2 full quarts into it. There are no visible leaks and I use 5W30 oil. Where in the heck is my oil going? The engine has 108k miles and runs great otherwise. I get about 19 to 21 miles per gallon on mostly highway driving. I cruise anywhere from 60 to 75 MPH. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks ahead of time. 1995 Hardbody XE King Cab 4x4 KA24E 5speed R180/H233B 4.375 Gears 235/75R15 Regul Trailblazer M/T's |
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N4W Card Holder![]() NISSAN4WHEELER ![]() |
It's either leaking it or burning it. Are you saying that there is no oil residue on the underside of the truck?
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Moderator N4W Card Holder Ultimate N4Wheeler |
Or smoke while driving it? That's a lot of oil not to notice the smoke or major oil underneath blown all the way back all over everything..
Meh. |
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Pavement Pounder |
No smoke or residue that I can see. Also there was only about 1500-2000 miles driven during those 4 weeks where it went from full to 2 quarts low. There are no other symptoms that I can detect. This sounds strange and this is why I am posting to get some input. I haven't pulled the plugs to see if there is oil residue. I park it on cement and see no leaks and have been monitoring it for a few weeks. No smoke whatsoever from the tailpipe either. Thanks for your assistance.
1995 Hardbody XE King Cab 4x4 KA24E 5speed R180/H233B 4.375 Gears 235/75R15 Regul Trailblazer M/T's |
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Administrator N4W Card Holder ![]() Arrr.. Me good eye! Ultimate N4Wheeler ![]() |
Sounds like it is burning it.
Check your PCV valve to make sure its not stuck open. That'll contribute to oil loss. Also, check your coolant to make sure there is no oil floating on top of it. This would indicate a headgasket failure. |
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NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
The engine is just burning the oil. 5-30 is way to thin of an oil for a truck with over 100K. Once an engine reaches over 50-60K you should switch to a heavier weight oil.
1995 KC XE-V6 4x4. |
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Ultimate N4Wheeler |
Lord, How about 0w-30? w/ over 235K miles That rule is not a hard and fast one, but in this case, going to a 10-40W might help Drive2quik's engine lower it's oil burning. ..................... "Climate change is no longer science. It's politics... Climate change is also about power. Power to control.... It's about who gets to decide: how much energy we will have... where that energy will come from... what it will cost... It's about simulations, scenarios and monsters conjured up by computer models that should never be used to chart government policy -- especially on matters that will profoundly affect our livelihoods, living standards, life spans and dreams of a better future. "So hold onto your wallets, and hope you can hold onto your homes, cars and jobs. You're about to be put on a wild political roller coaster." - Paul Driessen, TownHall.com ( the lies of global warming)> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zeGY8zbzc8 |
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N4W Card Holder![]() NISSAN4WHEELER ![]() |
Neighborhood kids are probably syphoning it.
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Pavement Pounder![]() |
How about the rear seal? I too was losing oil every couple weeks and I noticed that my clutch was slipping. No spots on the driveway, but when I let it sit and idle, I would see a leak onto the crosspipe which would burn it off. I also have a pretty good oil coating on the whole underside. I consider it rustproofing. It seems to leak more when I get closer to an oil change. I'm running Mobil 1 5w30, but I'm thinking of switching to 40. I see Bars Leaks now makes a rear main sealer in a bottle. I'm not going to try it until you do. I will be dropping the tranny in a couple months for the fix.
1990 Hardbody KC 4X4 V6 |
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Pavement Pounder |
Thanks for the input guys. I intend to switch to a 10W40 oil at the next change and try a stop leak oil additive and see if that stems the Burn/Leak. I had a Mercury Villager (Nissan VG30 V6
1995 Hardbody XE King Cab 4x4 KA24E 5speed R180/H233B 4.375 Gears 235/75R15 Regul Trailblazer M/T's |
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NISSAN4WHEELER![]() |
hillbille- HOLY CRAP. Honestly I've never seen a 0(zero) weight oil in the store before. Don’t think there’s a need for a oil so thin in the south.
Drive2quik- I'm not going to give a long spew about oil and oil additives. I'll simply state I don’t think oil additives are worth the plastic there bottled in. Here's some info about Oil and oil additives. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html http://www.outdoorlife.com/outdoor/gear/article/0,19912,195251,00.html http://www.offroaders.com/tech/snake-oil.htm http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html Those are all the good links. I have more links 1995 KC XE-V6 4x4. |
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Ultimate N4Wheeler |
0W-30=The 0 is the cold viscosity measure. It's still a 30 weight oil when warm. ..................... "Climate change is no longer science. It's politics... Climate change is also about power. Power to control.... It's about who gets to decide: how much energy we will have... where that energy will come from... what it will cost... It's about simulations, scenarios and monsters conjured up by computer models that should never be used to chart government policy -- especially on matters that will profoundly affect our livelihoods, living standards, life spans and dreams of a better future. "So hold onto your wallets, and hope you can hold onto your homes, cars and jobs. You're about to be put on a wild political roller coaster." - Paul Driessen, TownHall.com ( the lies of global warming)> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zeGY8zbzc8 |
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Rock Crawler |
The last time I drove my Nissan, I used 10W-30 in the summer, and 5W-30 in the winter (Valvoline MaxLife). It ALWAYS had valve clatter and burned a quart about every 3000 miles (like a built in "change oil" alarm
Isaac 1993 Nissan Hardbody 4-cyl 4x4 SAS & dual cases 1/2 complete! (aka Sasquatch) Too many other mods to list www.law4x4.com for club info www.nsw4x4.com www.zuknation.net 1988 Suzuki Samurai Blue Tin Top (aka Roadkill) Daily Driver, modifications have begun! |
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Wheeler |
Well, for a Nissan motor a qt of oil every 1,000 miles is a lot of oil...but on a 350, I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe your valve seals are leaking...Look at your plugs, but I wouldn't worry about it.
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Overlander |
My old Dodge D-50 4-banger would burn a quart every 300 miles or so with barely over 110K on the clock. Of course that was a Mitsubishi engine so rings were optional. Never leaked a single drop and at idle you could never see it, it would only lose it at higher revs.
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