Well as it turns out I have access to 69 Bronco in pieces. I'm wondering if the axles are the same or close to the same width as the HB. wont be getting them anytime soon, its in AZ and I'm in FL. havent even got the lift and stuff yet and already thinking SAS.

Yep, the Bronco axle is the perfect width for the Hardbody/Pathfinder trucks. I have a '71 bronco D44 center section under my pathy.

The down sides:

1. The '69 bronco will be drum brakes up front, which you'll need to convert to disk and 6 lug by using Chevy D44 knuckles/spindles/brakes, etc.

2. The '69 bronco will have the 260 U joints & tiny axle shafts, so you'll also have to replace those to go with 297s and HD shafts.

In reality, you'll only be using the bronco axle *housing* and diff cover and nothing else (unless you're going with a bronco radius arm suspension, in which case you'll use a lot of other parts off the bronco).

well it already has discs on it and a LSD, not sure on the u-joints or shafts, I am planning on taking suspension and everything.

I highly recommend staying with a 70-80's GM or Jeep half ton dana 44.

I found my axles local in Jacksonville. Around P-cola there's plenty of people with axles sitting in their yards. Start taking pleasure drives, you'll be surprised what you see sitting in one's front yard.

are they FREE

Is it 6 lug or 5 lug? If it's been upgraded to 6 lugs and discs, it's already got the Chevy outers. Upgrade to Chromo shafts and you're in business.

Something else about EB axles...the diff is much closer to center than it is on a wag axle, making for a more favorable driveline angle.

You're kinda stuck with the EB suspension though due to the big blobs of metal that the radius arms sandwich. Nothing wrong with that though. Look at Datz's rig.

Sounds like a steal!!!! I'd snag it. If you dont get it, I'll take it.

You aren't stuck with the EB suspension.. If you have the right axle, you can grind off the welds to remove the Radius arm wedges and go to leaves.

they're 5 lug, its a complete bronco in pieces, is there a problem with the EB suspension? it seems to flex nicely on yours.

I have one of my radius arms wristed to eliminate the bind that is inherent in a radius arm suspension. Thats the only way I can get the flex I do. I actually prefer being able to run pinned or unpinned to choose how much flex I want for a given trail.

I not following what you mean by wristed, I have an idea but if you have a picture that would be great, and what would you have pinned or unpinned (sway bar?)?

Here's the wristed arm I made:

http://www.piratepathy.com/photo/sas/PiratePathy_Buildu...ius%20Arm/index.html

I see said the blind man. but doesnt it still have the bind in it. that would be the pin as well.

I was looking at the build up, alot of planning went into it. nice job.

With the pin removed, it eliminates the bind. So, you have two modes of operation: Pin in place, or pin removed. With the pin removed, the wrist hinges slightly allowing lots of flex. I put the pin back in when I'm done wheeling and want to drive on the street.

If you don't wrist, don't stretch the arms to the width of the frame rails. At the angle they're designed they seem to flex pretty well. You can only take the radius arm lumps off if they're forged, not cast. Newer broncos have the 297x U joints and the shafts are interchangable. I forget which years though. search broncograveyard.com or the ford section of pirate4x4.com

If the axles are free go for it. Do a lot of research on how to link your truck. If I was going that route I would go custom 4-link.