Hey,

Just found this forum surfing around and figured if anyone can point me in the right direction, people here could!

Anyway, have a 95 Hardbody XE 4x4 Automatic, and about a week or so ago, reverse gear starting getting choppy. Now, it's gone. Pretty much acts like it is in neutral. I checked the fluid, and surprisingly, it seems to be over what it says it should be (hot and cold), but the dipstick is really hard to read for what ever reason. Haven't done a thing to the fluid in over 2 1/2 years, so that is kind of strange.

Looking in the manual, it says if I want to change the fluid, I should take the pan off. I guess that is not too tough looking at it. Saw that the manual trans has a plug, but auto you have to remove the pan? Suppose the filter is accessible when the pan is removed?

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,

i dont know too much about auto's but i believe when reverse craps its a done deal. i think its the first to go. might be able to rebuild.

Ewww...

You might be right. I think the forward gears may be starting to shift a little tough.

Well, I figured I would take the pan off and see if any little (or big) pieces come falling out. I venture to say that I would not rebuild it, however, I may be up to replacing with a rebuilt or certified one.

odds are you won't see any pieces at all. most likely just some thick sludge in the bottom of the pan. No reverse means time to rebuild or replace, thats all there is to it.

Ah. Rebuilding one is probably over my head or at least would take to long. Any recommendations on where to get a refurbished one? I can probably manage that. I'm sure locally would probably be my best option (Raleigh, NC area) unless someone knows of a good on-line place.

My 92 auto has a drain plug. All My Nissan autos have or do.

Is the color reddish clear? The only reason you need to pull the pan is to change the filter.

Thanks. Yeah, it does have a drain plug. Don't know why the manual doesn't mention it.

Well, I drained it and dropped it anyway, just to check it out. Turns out I can't get it all the way off. The muffler is in the way and it is about rusted to death in every bolt spot. Only way I can think of getting the pan completely off is to maybe cut the muffler, but I don't know how I would patch it back if I did that. Any thoughts on that?

Suffice to say, I found a broken ring about 2 inches in diameter in the bottom of the pan. Don't know what it is, but I'm sure it is not supposed to be laying the bottom of the pan. I think by clicking view picture on the link below you should be able to see it. I hope...

About the oil pan.

I had a 89 pathy a few years back. I changed the tranny fluid by pulling the pan. I was unable to drop the pan down due to the exhaust. I angled the pan aft causing the fluid to drain out. I inspected the pan. Nothing found.

I had a tranny filter but when I pulled the pan I did not see a filter of any kind. I took the filter back to the store.

I cant see the picture. If you've found anything inside the pan, something is up.

That looks like a clutch disc. That would make sense then.

I pulled my pan off no problem with the stock Y pipe in place. Back when it was stock height. That was tough.

Okay, thanks for the info. I knew it wasn't good but just wasn't sure what it was exactly. I didn't get the pan fully off but like LordBiotre I simply inspected and cleaned out the bottom. Knowing it wasn't good, I didn't waste but a day on it. I suspect though, if I'm to drop the transmission I'm going to have to do a whole muffler as well because that thing is so rusted in every connection I would have to saw it off.

Looks like a couple of connections and a few bolts and that tranny should come out without having to do any strangeness with the engine. Besides of course the muffler.

Okay, so I got a transmission. Was following a somewhat crappy Haynes Manual about how to replace the automatic transmission in the 95 4x4 XE V6 truck when I get to the part that says

"Support the oil pan with a jack and remove the lower torque converter plate to expose the 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel."

Say what?

First of all, I can hardly make out the plate they are referring to but I did manage to unbolt about 4 bolts and the starter I think would be holding it on. The plate didn't budge, so I'm thinking there is more to it then that. But, besides that, the sump on the oil pan is directly in the way. There is no way removing that plate exposes any torque converter bolts that you can get to.

I'm think the transfer case has to come off with it to get that transmission out and then after that you might be able to get to the torque conveter. Anyone done this before cause I'm stumped?

The tcase does not need to come off.

Those books try to cover z24, ka24,vg30i and vg30e 2wd 4wd diesel etc. You should download the factory service manual for $20. It only covers ONE year.

http://www.nissan-techinfo.com

OK to unbolt the torque converter on a vg30 you remove the starter and remove the bolts from that hole. remove one bolt, turn engine with a 27mm socket on the crank. remove bolt, repeat as needed.

check this out..


http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/567343358.html