The most common problem with the center support bearing seems to be that when they get replaced for the first time, the mechanic fails to mark the orientation of the parts so that they go bock together correctly. The result is a set of u-joints that are "out of phase". This allows the shaft assemble to buckle and unload in a cyclic pattern. If assembled correctly, there should be no problem.
I know this because I made that classic mistake.

A one-piece shaft is certainly a good remedy. It should work fine with a 3" lift.

If one has switched to a one-piece shaft and still gets vibration upon initial take-off, look to the springs for the source of your problem. Blocks are not your friends. They cause axle wrap or "wheel hop" as Eric R. suggested. Have a friend watch the rear diff housing as you take off.

OK... I'll admit I've never heard of the ds "out of phase" thing but it makes complete sense. My drive shaft has never been removed and replaced so I don't think that's an issue unless it was done wrong at the factory 118,000 miles ago. It's doubtful that it would last that long if something were wrong. I'll be replacing the carrier bearing soon, so for future reference, what exactly does "in" or "out" of phase look like pertaining to a driveshaft? I'm assuming it just means to make sure that the two ends are lined up with each other, something like this:
+-----+ not +-----x

This problem originally occurred last weekend so I went on rock auto and bought the Timken HB6 that they list for my truck. I just received it yesterday it is definitely not the same part. So now I'm stumped, do I buy the $275 part from the dealer , or take a chance on a used one from a junk yard for $30 , or find a 1 pc ds? Where's the best place to get one? Price? Any modification required? Does anyone know where to find the RIGHT cb cheaper than the dealer? And finally, is there an after-market cb assembly to replace the bearing and the bracket that holds it with something tougher? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I found some pics that might shed some light on this issue.

This is what the part in my truck looks like but it says it's for a short bed XE, 4 cyl.


This is the wrong part that I bought by using rockauto's drill-down menus.


Bueller?!

One pc ds is the way to go. Don't worrie about the carrier bearing. I got mine from carparts.com for $130. It came out of a 2003 ext cab Fronty 4x4. Check out Nissannut.com for the part#.

The one in the first pic is the type I use. I got mine at Car Quest for $55.

I don't know of one that is tougher, but if the original lasted 118,000 miles, how much tougher does it need to be?

I don't recall what the correct phasing is. Just mark your parts before removing the yoke that holds the bearing on. Use a punch and hammer or a paint marker. Put it back together the same way it came apart and you will be fine.

Here's a close up P/N pic of my d/s.


My truck had a 3" suspension lift when I installed the d/s. I have more pics from when I first installed my 1 piece drive shaft.