88 kc 3.0 5 spd
sometimes I can't get it into gear so I replaced the master cylinder, then the slave cylinder and still no luck. When I bleed the clutch it works well for a little bit but then it reverts back to its old ways. I feel like it might be the clutch damper that is at fault. Is this part absolutely necessary or can I take it apart and seal up the housing or maybe just replace it with a hydraulic hose? The pedal adjuster is about on its last thread of the master cylinder rod just to make it semi-driveable. Maybe I am faulting the wrong part but please help.
thanks
JOe

on some of the mc the push rod is adjustable.
did you compare the old an new to see if they were the same ?

I didn't compare them but the old one had just as much threads left on the adjuster. I remember because after I in stalled the new one I decided to set the pedal height back to factory spec so I did and I still couldn't get the clutch to release so I backed out the adjuster again.

does the clutch act the same as before you swapped out parts ??

yes it does but the only reason I am thinking it might be a hydraulic problem is after I bleed everything it shifts fine for a while. Also it seems to shift fine after it has sat for a some time but after driving it in traffic or any time I leave the clutch in for some time like at a stop it doesn't want to release the next time I use the clutch. sometimes it doesn't want to release when I am slowing down or coming to a stop.

then it is not bled properly .

You have two systems here. Hydraulic and mechanical. If you have replaced the slave and master cylinder. Then you have the hydraulic side pretty much mastered. Only thing you can chase on the hyd side is air/water in the clutch fluid. Do you feel and sponginess? If the peddle is firm as it should be then it’s the mechanical side.

Have someone inside the truck actuate the clutch peddle. Look at the clutch fork if it is moving within proper limitations. Inspect the clutch fork for chaffing. Make sure when the clutch peddle is being pressed/depressed the clutch for is moving smoothly. There should be no jumps, chafing sounds. Should not be any delays.

I the clutch fork is working properly. Well the next step is to drop the tranny and check the installation of the clutch discs. There probably toast.

or the pressure plate is toast..

If the problem is hydraulic in nature, the symptoms point toward the master cylinder. It is very much like a brake master cylinder when it wears out or malfunctions. It will bleed down if you hold it at a traffic light. Pumping it up will restore some action.

How long ago was the master cylinder and slave cylinder replaced?

If the problem is NOT hydraulic, it could simply be that your clutch/pressure plate is worn beyond the system's ability to disengage it. How many miles are on it?

I finally put the new clutch set in this weekend. The clutch pedal is still very soft. So I have repalaced the master,slave, full clutch set minus the pilot bushing it looked perfect. The old pressure plate had heavy scoring from the release bearing on the diaphragm fingers. What would cause this? I have bled the clutch probably 10 times in the past 6 months. I have tried to bleed damper then slave, then vice versa. Nothing has has restored firmness to the clutch pedal. Wher do I look next. I asked before if I could just do away with the damper but I could really use the help. thanks, Joe