Submitted by 'Rick' via email.
Some pics at:
Some pictures
This should cover all Z24 engines...but some details might be different.
Things to watch:
* Use a good manual or two...you'll need the additional info...some info in the manuals might not be accurate?
* Remove both battery cables...negative cable first.
* I got the engine at TDC on the ignition stroke...removed the 2 starter bolts, laid the starter on the frame, and clamped a small c-clamp on the flywheel...this keeps the engine near TDC and holds it in place when the crank pulley bolt is removed. Needs to be clamped TIGHT.
* I used ziplock sandwich bags to hold various bolts...there are many of different sizes/lengths...need to keep track of them...bags can be labeled with a marker....KEEP TRACK of all bolts!
* radiator, shroud, and fan need to be removed....then the water pump
* The PS...PS idler bracket...and alternator need to be removed. Both can be laid on the frame and hoses/wires....no need to remove wiring or hoses.
* the front pully/dampener I removed by taking out the six small bolts and then using a puller with ground down "feet" on the steel flange left on the crank.
* After finding exact TDC...I marked the distributer rotor position with the cap off...noting that it is pointing at the contact/wire going to the no 1
cylinder...1 intake...1 exhaust...then removed the dist.
* The oil pump can then be removed from below...no problem with clearance for a 4x4.
* Then the bolts holding the front cover can be taken out...I used a sheet of styrofoam to keep these is the right pattern...KEEP TRACK of all bolts!
* The front cover can be pulled straight out to the front...BE VERY SURE that ALL bolts are removed first!
* Clean the cover and install a new oil seal.
* Keys...crank and cam keys should be at the
top....TDC. Soak the new chain in oil. The process
of installing the gears...chain...guides...tensioner
is outlined in the manuals...I'd just be sure that the chain is snugged pretty tight using the adjustable guide on the left (from front). Torque all bolts to specs.
* Front cover. Clean all gasket surfaces well....cover and block...do no damage. Then clean with lacquer thinner. When installing the front cover...best to use a very thin layer of gasket goop on the side gaskets due to the oil passages around the oil pump area...but use a good bit on top and bottom?
I used a quality RTV gasket maker...don't forget the corners.
Warning! If you are using RTV...or if it has been used in the past...be careful that some isn't trapped in the threaded holes in the cover or block...as some are bottom tapped and can trap RTV. When putting the bolt in it will act like it is hung up and won't go in easily.
I had one alum lug on the top of the alum cover break due to trapped RTV...fortunately it broke to the outside...still allowing the surfaces to seal. You can use an undersize drill to get the excess RTV out of these blind holes.
Also be sure to use the right length bolts in the right places.
* Liberally lube all moving parts of the oil pump shaft and gears.
With the engine exactly at TDC...the oil pump should be primed with oil...then the shaft aligned exactly with the pump as shown in the manual...then the pump body/bolt holes must be lined up with the cover holes BEFORE the pump gear engages the gear on the crank. I had to try this about 3Xs to get it right.
When the dist is in...the hold down bolt(s) should be centered in the slot(s) and the rotor should point to the mark at...1 intake.
* The rest of it is pretty much the reverse of taking it apart. The radiator goes in last.
IMO...this is not an easy job....at lot of stuff to remove...and a lot of various sized bolts to keep track of....lots of details...the cover can be a pain....but it is do able.
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