If your doing your cb don't forget to check that swr else you could be replacing it sooner than you think
glad you got the pump going.
I need to do an oil change on the meany...should probably do a coolant flush too....
ARB Compressor fixed. It is not back in the truck yet but it works again. 
And my locker's fixed. 
Run-minus 34 days and counting.
Radio check? Check. 
I think I found my issues. Uneven brake wear, cracked brake pad on passenger side(still in tolerance thickness), and rust inside the driver's side caliper(sticking). Ooo, and the black ugliness that poured out of those calipers? Yuck! Even though I've replaced the brake fluid several times before, the sediment in the calipers was rediculous. I guess fluid replacement doesn't exactly get through the nook and crannies. I didn't get as far as putting the remanufactured calipers on yet but I did get the rotors resurfaced, repacked the wheel bearings and replace oil seal since it's all open. My $60 brake pads were free. Supposedly, still under warranty, score! Hopefully after this, my brakes will run true.
I still have two fuel cans to buy, change the other oils out and put skid plates back on.
Dammit, gotta get a tire checked. A big piece of steel sticking out of my tire that's somehow still holding air. A little bit of driving will F that up good.
Well the mad scramble continues....the truck was driving like crap with the 4 degree shims I had under the front springs to make the CV driveshaft happier so I got my old Ujoint driveshaft retubed and I'm using that instead so I could take the shims out and get my caster back where it should be.
When I unbolted the Ubolts on the driver side, the welds for the spring perch onto the cast part of the housing had failed and the perch was just floating in there.
Thanks Brent for welding that up for me yesterday!
Shims are out, new ubolts installed and torqued and the truck drives much better on the road now.
I think I also found where all the gear oil was leaking out of the Tcase....4x4 sensor was just finger tight and oil was coming out of the hole. Tightened that up and cleaned all the sludge off my skidplate....
Changed oil.
Now my clutch is starting to slip (UGH!). I don't have time to deal with that. Truck goes into the shop this afternoon for a new clutch and will get a coolant flush while I'm at it.
Run just got kinda expensive.....
I FEEL your pain.... Mine had to go into the shop as the main engine / tranny wire harness was shot, not to mention I just replaced the AC Compressor last week, and I still have to change out a leaking hydraulic pump and steering gear box... but its all worth it
Hopefully (fingers crossed) I am done. I did all that stuff from my first post (TREs, heims, ball joints, new tires, new battery, new battery terminals, greased everything etc) and the shakedown run went well. Keith helped me fix my air conditioner.
Sine then I have done a ton of little maintenance things like fluid and filter changes, plus I fixed a couple of leaks.
My CO2 tank is being hydro tested and refilled and I bought a new tool bag too.
Last night I found that the TX-10 will hold 1 gallon of gear oil.
Originally Posted by System-F:
Last night I found that the TX-10 will hold 1 gallon of gear oil.
It is supposed to take 2-3/8 quarts. An entire gallon would certainly be over-filled! It takes just over a gallon and a half to fill the t-case and the manual transmission (6-7/8 pt).
I tried the harbor freight drill powered fluid pump and it was very fast. It dumped 1 gallon in the t-case of which I had to drain 1 1/2 quarts out.
